Caudebec-en-Caux is a pleasant town settled around the Seine where the Ste-Gertrude Valley runs into the river. It was here that I stopped on my way to Jumièges where I had booked a room at a chambre d'hôte called Au Temps des Cerises. I wasn’t planning on stopping but I needed to do some shopping to get some stuff for dinner since I didn’t want to go out to some restaurant. I’m so glad I stayed for a while and took a walking tour of the town. The Quai Guilbaud along the river is a popular place for a stroll and offers wonderful views of tour boats and barges passing by as well as the Pont Bretonne. Because there are so few bridges over the Seine in this part of Normandy and because the river winds its way like a serpent throughout the countryside, it can be difficult to get from one point to another. A good example of this is the Pont de Bretonne in Caudebec-en-Caux which was built in the 1970s to relieve the amount of traffic taking the numerous ferries along the river. There are still quite a few ferries and one day in particular, I took a ferry that cut my distance from 50km to only 15km. One of the first interesting old buildings in town was the Old Prison which dates from the 14th century. Closer to the center of town is the Maison des Templiers (12th and 13th centuries), called “Templar” perhaps because it served as a Protestant temple during the Reformation. It escaped destruction in 1940 probably because of its stone structure—one of the few houses of its kind from medieval Normandy. When an American threatened to buy the building and rebuilt it stone by stone in the United Sates, a local association saved the building and created the Museum Biochet-Bréchot which now houses items of local history and archaeology. Sadly, much of Caudebec-en-Caux lost its ancient fortifications in 1378 however some portions of the old walls still exist like the Tour d’Harfleur and the Tour des Fascines. There are several half-timber houses in the town as well which give an idea of what Caudebec must have looked like during the Middle Ages. The chief architectural interest of the town lies in its Flamboyant church, Église Notre-Dame which was constructed during the 15th and the early 16th centuries. Henri IV once described it as “the most beautiful chapel in the kingdom.” It is certainly that—the belfry is 53 meters tall and its upper part is surmounted by a stone crown spire. The west façade is pierced by three doorways which portray 333 different characters from the Bible and by a remarkable rose window surrounded by small statues. Inside, there is no transept and the nave is quite narrow. The 17th century baptismal font is decorated with intricately carved panels. The great organ is from the 16th century and has 3,345 pewter pipes. The Chapelle du St-Sépulcre at the rear of the church has a set of large stone statues (16th century) including a recumbent Christ which were originally from the Jumièges Abbey. The Chapelle de la Vierge, or Lady Chapel is famous for its keystone which weighs over seven tonnes. The most impressive parts of the entire place are the stained glass windows which date from the 15th and 16th centuries.