Since I was in Lyon for four days, I purchased a two-day pass that allowed me to use the public transportation system and access to all the museums at any time. It was so convenient not having to worry about ticket prices. Lyon, which is listed as a Town of Art and History, offers different tours conducted by guide-lecturers approved by the Ministry of Culture and Communication. With that in mind, I purchased tickets for an English-speaking tour of Vieux Lyon with a very knowledgable guide named Jérôme. The first tour was on Saturday morning and took a group of about 25 of us throughout the old quarter. One of the main features of the old town is the numerous passages or alleyways known as traboules (from the Latin transambulare meaning “walking through”) especially between rue St-Jean, rue des Trois-Maries and quai Romain-Rolland, rue St-Georges and quai Fulchiron. Since there was not enough space to build an extensive network of streets, these passageways, all perpendicular to the Saône, were built to link the buildings together. The first one I visited was the 16th century Hôtel de la Chamererie which was built for the cleric responsible for overseeing the cloisters of St-Jean Cathedral. The arcading in the galleries of the Maison des Avocats is supported on massive columns and the outbuildings have a pink roughcast. Seen from the rue Bombarde, the house represents a fine example of 16th century Italian style arcitecture. Further along the rue Juiverie is where during the late 14th century the Jews were expelled by wealthy Italian bankers who replaced many homes with luxurious mansions in the Renaissance style. At number 22 is the Maison Baronat, which has a corbelled corner turret overlooking the Montée du Change. Another impressive sight are all of the montées, or rises, which consist of winding flights of steps or steeply sloping streets that climb the Fourvière hill, providing superb views down over the old town. This one below is called the Montée du Change and was nowhere nearly as steep as Montee du Garillan (224 steps) or Montee des Chazeaux (228 steps). The Hôtel Paterin, also known as the Henri IV house has a staircase in the courtyard with three tiers of arches, one above the other, supported by massive columns. It is quite impressive. The courtyard in the Hôtel Bullioud contains the famous gallery designed by Philibert Delorme, a gem of French Renaissance arcitecture. It was built in 1536 on his return from Rome. Of the hundreds of traboules, it is impossible to write about each one. My favorite was located within the courtyard of the Musée Gadagne which is the largest Renaissance building in the old town. The rue de Bœuf owes its name to the statue of an ox (or more precisely a bull) at the corner of place Neuve-St-Jean, a work attributed to M. Hendricy. Nearby is the Maison du Crible at number 16 and dates from the 17th century. It has an ornate doorway with bosses and ringed columns topped by a pediment decorated with a small carving of the Adoration of the Magi. The alleyway with ogival vaulting supported on carved corbels leads to an inner courtyard in which the elegant round tower, with staggered openings, owes its name, Tour Rose to the color of its roughcast.